Brunch At Old Devil Moon

Long before Blue Smoke and Biscuit, there was Old Devil Moon - a small, Southern joint friendly to both meatophiles and vegetarians. For 14 years, Old Devil Moon has served one of the heartiest, reasonably-priced brunches in the city.

My companion and I took a friend with Southern roots there today - we thought he would appreciate the cheese grits. I agonized over my choice... would it be the huge Fisherman's breakfast (fried catfish, eggs, garlic greens, grits, a large fluffy biscuit with homemade wild blueberry and peach preserves), the McMoon egg, cheddar and meat (bacon, sausage or veggie sausage) sandwich with grits or homefries, or the truly formidable Hungry Man breakfast (3 eggs, a stack of corn or whole wheat pancakes, cheddar grits and choice of meat)?

My companion, in an attempt at healthful eating, ordered the greens, beans and grits - with no eggs! I finally decided on that huge, eggs-spilling-over-the-edges McMoon. Although this sandwich was quite tasty, the biscuit was burnt on top. However, the biscuit in our friend's Fisherman's Breakfast was just perfect.

Old Devil Moon is so (deservedly) popular that you must have your entire party present in order to be seated.

Old Devil Moon: 511 East 12th St., (212) 475-4357.

Sweets News

• Mon Repas, a shop featuring crepes, galettes, Callebaut-coated Belgian waffles and Liege caramelized sugar waffles, opens officially on Monday. If a regular-sized waffle is too much for you, you'll be able to buy a bag of minis. (50 West 8th St., (212) 254-0787.)
  
  
• The upcoming issue of Pastry Art & Design will include an article I wrote about the careers of today's pastry chefs. I interviewed eight chefs who are embarking on exciting new paths, opening dessert cafes, savory shops and more!

Sorrel

Sorrel's soothing, well-lit room sits at the end of a row of charming Brooklyn brownstones. I dream of living in one of those brownstones and indulging in Sorrel's $25 prix fixe every night. Even though I live nowhere near Prospect Heights, I know I'll be back to live the fantasy!

A recent meal at Sorrel was full of fresh spring vegetables. My friend and I began with the olive-oil drizzled white asparagus, which was livened up with olives and slivers of Parmgiano Reggiano, and the peppery chilled sweet corn soup. Then came the rich slices of Long Island duck in a sweetish orange sauce and lentils, and well-seared scallops over a tumble of corn and diced red peppers.

Although my friend isn't much of a dessert fan, she finished every last spoonful of her semisweet chocolate mousse. I opted for the slightly lighter orange-yogurt panna cotta, which was a refreshing, citrusy end to a delightful meal.

Sorrel: 605 Carlton Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 622-1190.

Attention All Literary-Minded Foodies!

Newly-launched Alimentum Journal is presenting a special reading at the Mercantile Library (17 East 47th St.) on May 22nd at 6:30 pm. And if your interest lies in reading rather than eating, there will be an appetizer-and-wine reception afterwards. Call (212) 755-6710 for more information.

Tempo (CLOSED 5/09 - how sad!)

Amazingly, many of Tempo's tables stood empty on Sunday night. (In contrast, the far inferior Aunt Suzie's boasted a line out the door.) Fortunately, I was able to enlarge my party to four without any reservation trouble.

Despite a few minor service issues, we all greatly enjoyed our meals. I reveled in the special appetizer: a large hunk of creamy burrata topped with a blanket of black olive tapenade.

My pan-seared black sea bass on a bed of arugula was expertly prepared, if slightly less notable than my friends' entrees, which consisted of: the outstanding tagliatelle trifolata - a tumble of hand-cut noodles in a luxuriant, rich mushroom sauce (I had a serious case of dinner envy there!), a roasted whole orata, which was served with a tableside drizzle of blood orange olive oil, and Arctic char with English peas, mint and Meyer lemon-buttered gnocchi. (We also ordered the chick pea fries, which, if not quite as light as Nice Matin's panelles, were very satisfying with their lemony mayonnaise. The chick pea fritter also makes an appearance in a sandwich at next door's Tempo Presto.)

For once I regretted my habitual chocolate dessert choice; I found myself chipping away at my friend's ricotta cheesecake with rhubarb compote. Still, I enjoyed the rich, multi-layered Brooklyn blackout cake, if I missed the advertised mocha whipped cream. I would love to make a repeat visit to Tempo; next time I might order differently. (One question... will the still-standing "Cucina Way" sign on 5th Avenue be replaced by one that reads "Tempo Way?")

Tempo: 256 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 636-2020.

Bad News For Coffee Achievers

Apparently, Wolfgang Puck's futuristic self-heating lattes are already a thing of the past.